It turned out to be a pile of stones but by the time I’d retraced my steps the sun had come out and the loch didn’t feel that isolated. But since the lodge no longer appears to be in business, you’d be better off spending half the day lazily exploring the Strathcarron area and then devoting the afternoon to plodding up the road to Gerry’s Hostel on the A890. Am Ende der ersten Woche kämpfe ich mich bis Morvich durch. Then I thought: but which way? Home. “When I see flowers and plants I just kick them out of the way.” At Corrie Hallie, you can continue over the hill to Ullapool. Of all the glens I was travelling through Glen Elchaig was the one that most interested me – in part because of its ‘secluded’ reputation, in part because of its noble beauty and in part because it remains populated, but only barely so. B&H remark that the descent to Sourlies is ‘unsparing, undefined and steep in places.’ It is steep, yes, but it is on a clear path and, as you descend further, you may, as I did, enjoy intoxicating natural perfumes blending the smells of wild flowers, wood and water. Or, you know, get a good GPS device. Farmer and bunkhouse owner Willie Nicolson, who brought me two farm eggs for breakfast, also talked about some aspects of the glen’s social history and later gave me a book about the glen, Beloved Over All: Glen Elchaig In Kintail, written by his late aunt Isabel M. Nicolson. Ich fotografiere leidenschaftlich gern und knapp 2 kg Kameraausrüstung waren auf meinen bisherigen Touren immer der große Luxus. On the way down to Corrie Hallie and the road there were several people coming up, including an undergraduate geologist. Outdoor; Photography; Hacking; About Me; Cape Wrath Trail – von Ullapool bis …. I'd read tons of trail descriptions and copied multiple ones to my kindle. Zumindest in den Momenten, in denen es nur durch Sumpf oder über Steine geht. Using the compasses I’d been given at Kinloch Hourn (it was a new orienteering compass) I set a bearing for the loch and headed up over rough ground – there is no path – to two prominent rocky knolls. In retrospect I wish I’d stopped the day’s walking at Barrisdale Bay and stayed at the bunkhouse there, which costs £3 a night and has luxuries like running water and a flushing toilet. Or what? There is a very steep and pathless descent to the glen below and, once there, you face a very boggy walk to Strathan (my right leg disappeared up to the thigh in the bog at one point). The view from Loch Eil. But isn’t alone-ness what the solo walker is seeking on walks like this? The Cape Wrath trail is considered one of the most spectacular and challenging walks in the UK. He mumbled something about Morvich and the fact that he didn’t tackle the Falls of Glomach because he didn’t have trekking poles (I missed the falls out too, but not because I didn’t have any poles). Although B&H suggest you next keep the river on your right and the fence on your left after leaving the forest (or rather ex-forest), I lost the path and ended up splashing over the water where I could to the A896 which goes directly to Kinlochewe past the entrance to the Beinn Eighe National Nature Reserve. Towards the end of the loch a friendly crofter gave me a lift to Locheilside rail station on the other side of the loch and from there I finished the journey to Glenfinnan on the train. That sign is on the alternative route north – the ‘bad weather route’ as B&H call it. But that seemed miles away. The sign they reproduce in the book is no longer there. B&H warn that it’s a tiring, tortuous path and so it proved. And there are supplies available at Gerry’s bunkhouse, a few miles up the road from Strathcarron, which is where I headed after a night at the Strathcarron Hotel – or at least in a field over the road, which is where they let me camp when I found out all the rooms were full. Had I stayed I would have spent the afternoon exploring the beach. It goes through ten places that could loosely be termed towns or villages in its entirety, but few of these will coincide with the end of a day’s trekking. To me, the reputation can’t be due to the length of the daily sections; many long-distance paths have much greater daily mileages. The other bears right and climbs steadily to the same loch on a wide track past the Heights of Kinlochewe. It supports a new guidebook to the route which will be published by Cicerone. But although green on the map, the ex-plantation here should be a white blank since it’s now more like a post-apocalyptic landscape from Cormac McCarthy’s The Road, with row upon of row of dead bleached stumps and brash. It is renowned as the most difficult long distance trail in the UK due to large sections of difficult terrain. Wilderness was one reason I was doing this walk – seeking out a few reminders of the Jacobite rebellion, and learning some social history of the glens which supported it, and later suffered Hanoverian vengeance as a consequence, was another. Cape Wrath / ˈ r æ θ / (Scottish Gaelic: Am Parbh, known as An Carbh in Lewis) is a cape in the Durness parish of the county of Sutherland in the Highlands of Scotland.It is the most north-westerly point in mainland Britain. Far over to the right the landscape opened out into a vast natural amphitheatre and I could see water shining over there. Since there are no fiddly navigational problems between here and the main road on Little Loch Broom, I took a leisurely pace across the moorland on the top and lazily filled the water bottle at springs and little water falls when it pleased. But no matter where you descend, you face another, much steeper, ascent of the glen in front of you to reach Strathan and Loch Arkaig. All of that – my hopes, my enthusiasm and my self-confidence – lay rotting in a snow hole, high on a hostile mountain. Another Cape Wrath Trail blog? Ich brauche noch über 2 Stunden bis zur Bothy Sourlies, taste mich vorwärts auf rutschigen Steinen. I find this hard to believe because the forest isn’t that big and your instinct, even if lost, would be to walk north and down hill to the road to Kinlochewe. Dafür hat man streckenweise die Wahl zwischen verschiedenen Varianten. Die letzten Tage laufe ich nicht mehr allein. The route I followed was based on the somewhat eccentric trail described by Denis Brooke and Phil Hinchcliffe in North to the Cape (Cicerone, 1999), which starts at Fort William and immediately heads west to Glenfinnan before turning north. I escaped by walking to placid Loch Arkaig as the sun went down, and inspecting the ruins of the Jacobite-era army barracks, dated to 1745 by OS. As you come up from the loch there is an awkward split in the path. Hierbei handelt es sich nicht (!) Er ist kein offizieller Wanderweg und nicht ausgeschildert. Just before Gulvain you turn left off the track and begin the gentle ascent north over boggy ground to a rocky outcrop called Gualann nan Osna. Looking towards Sourlies from the River Finiskaig. Sheil Bridge to Strathcarron. Meine Entscheidung, über die Halbinsel Knoydart zu laufen, konfrontiert mich, wie in den Foren versprochen, schon sehr früh auf meiner Tour mit einem der schwersten und wildesten Streckenabschnitte. Why does the same laissez-faire attitude not apply to the Pennine Way? And when alone-ness starts to feel more like loneliness, don’t you gain sight of the emotional landscape that lies within your own hidden self? Owners of hotels, B&Bs, bunk houses, hostels and campsites on and near the trail route are also mostly aware of its existence, which also contributes to the sense that the CWT is set to become a permanent part of the long-distance walking itinerary. An Ausrüstung ist schon vieles da. That service (and the hotel) has not existed for a few years now, so if you are committed to getting to Ullapool from here then you are either walking from Corrie Hallie to the main road to Ullapool or getting a lift the long way round. Cape Wrath Trail Blog. “People always talk about Knoydart being the last wilderness,” said Willie. Due to its extremely remote nature, two nights of this trek will be spent wild camping. Ein paar Tage später laufe ich wieder in eine Nebelwand und freue mich, dort ein vom Trail schon bekanntes Gesicht zu sehen. I moved to the left and stumbled across peat gullies to another mound. Irgendwie zieht es mich im Urlaub meist nach Norden. Aug 06, 2014; Choice of maps is a particularly important decision when planning an expedition on the Cape Wrath Trail. Letztes Jahr, direkt nach meiner Masterarbeit wollten wir, meine Freundin und ich, zwei Wochen ausspannen. Mit einem kleinen Umweg beheben wir unseren Navigationsfehler und als ich mich am späten Nachmittag gegen Windböen stemme, würde ich die gern wieder gegen den Nebel tauschen. Ein Weg, dem der Wanderer einfach folgen könnte, ist nur im geringen Maße zu finden. Aber wir wollen doch laufen! The craggy tops and smooth rock faces enclosing the loch now looked interesting rather than forbidding and I began to see why B&H recommended the site as a fine place to wild camp. If nothing else, you can read the following as a commentary on the route set out in North to the Cape. No matter. As the track begins to descend, it enters a narrow gorge which forces you to clamber from rock to rock and jump from one side of the river to the other. The body of water I had seen was the secluded Lochan a Mhaim and spending some at its side, enclosed by mountains, should be an occasion you tell yourself that following the CWT was a very good decision. Yes, the people at the B&B had a room. Day Eight: Gerry’s Hostel to Kinlochewe – nine miles or so. It’s a hot pull with a heavy rucksack but once the terrain levels out you are soon at the entrance to the pass, marked by a fence and a magnificent broom bush, and the path to Kinlochewe. Nach knapp 2 Wochen auf dem Trail stelle ich fest, dass Berge immer noch anstrengend sind. Das wird mein großes Abenteuer! No, it was a private hostel only open to groups. Besonders an einer in Hanglage geht der Adrenalinspiegel ganz nach oben. Wir nähern uns langsam dem Cape. When planning my Cape Wrath Trail trip this year I expected to walk it ultrapacking-style, going for long days with no stops at a steady 5km/h pace. From the bridge the track drops to Coulin and Loch Coulin. May 13, 2016; It's hard to believe that this website is now nearly five years old. Here, as you follow winding forestry tracks through Dorusduain Wood you should notice that the conifers are so dense that almost no light filters through to the forest floor. However, it was flattish on the top and so I wandered around a bit until I saw what seemed to be a winding path fit for the name. From this point I had the first panoramic view of Strathan, Glen Pean and Glen Dessarry where I would be walking the next day. But this is plain rubbish, since most of the Brooke/Hinchcliffe route is on tracks along moorland, glens and over passes which have been formed over generations. The prospect fills me with excitement and anticipation with a fair smattering of fear! Our favorite bothies along the Cape Wrath Trail, from the cozy to the absolutely epic. OS then shows the path crossing the river Elchaig near Cragog in the glen. The path is not waymarked and has many variations. Haldane said that the glen was probably used by drovers moving their cattle from Skye in ancient times. Collection of bottle tops at Gerry’s Hostel, The Falls at Easan Dorcha, in the guest book. Karte und Kompass oder GPS-Gerät sollten unbedingt dabei sein. Snipe? The CWT is more of a route than a trail because it’s not blazed or way-marked and because you can connect the endpoints using any sequence of trails, 4×4 tracks, paths, roads, or off-trail segments to connect the two endpoints. It all seems obvious now. But first there was an 8am bus journey back down the road to the crossroads at Drumsallie, where B&H’s CWT starts in earnest. The idea was to hike up from Glenfinnan to Morvich and then take a bus to Portree through Kyle of Lochalsh. Am Abend steht das Zelt zwischen den Dünen und ich bin immer wieder einfach nur begeistert von diesem Ort. The Cape Wrath Trail (CWT) has a deceiving name: it is actually not a trail, but a route, running the length of the Scottish Highlands between Fort William in the south and Cape Wrath in the north. In contrast to the jagged stony beasts to the south, some of the mountains visible around Strathcarron are more whale-backed and hide their bulk in thick low clouds, as if sulkily reluctant to show their true face. B&H write that there is no “formal path” at the burn. But the clue to finding the right location is that you ascend the glen where you can’t follow the river on its left bank any more. However, you surely won’t have forgotten that somewhere up ahead B&H will ask you to exit the glen in a dramatic and tiring fashion. Trouble is, there are a lot of rocks and a lot of trees in and near the river. Although I still think it’s difficult to tell from OS where the lochan is in relation to the top of the pass, the water creeps into view at the far right-hand end of the pass as you come over the top. Why? The Cape Wrath Ultra® is Scotland’s finest multi-stage ultra running event. About Us 'Oner' Blog. Sie sind unbewirtschaftet und sehr einfach gehalten, bieten Lagerplätze für Isomatte und Schlafsack. Needless to say, I hadn’t built a little cairn or an arrow at the bottom either. Then I thought: if I could follow the river to Lochan nam Breac, further up the glen, I could pick up the ‘defined’ path from there without all the hassle of having to go up the side of the glen. In Glasgow angekommen, habe ich schnell meine Gaskartusche und mein Zugticket. And their names, they said, were Mary and Joseph. Another Cape Wrath Trail blog? How selfish of them not to. At a point where the river turns south west and comes out of a gorge, they say, ascend the ‘very steep side’ of the glen to find a defined path that will take you over a pass and down to Loch Hourn. Part of the path near the side of the loch was also being repaired and so, once again, I had to clamber over boulders hanging over sea water. You can cut a few corners on published itineraries, miss out some short but dull road-walking sections by getting a lift (I and some other walkers I met did so), and still get one of the best, perhaps the best (and few remaining), experiences of true wilderness walking in Britain as you head north. It’s a good step up from waymarked trails such as the West Highland Way and Pennine Way – although both routes make good initial training for the CWT. , will ich herausfinden, ob ich den packe am Strand auf einem glitschigen aus. Ecological research project looking back towards the top the path heads steeply down to Barrisdale.! 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